When I was gluing the scarf on the boom I made up some extra un-thickened resin and put the first clear coat on the bowsprit, tiller and gaff.
Here they are, curing in the workshop.
The starboard side and bottom plate were next covered with fibreglass cloth. Here is the cloth wetted out.
When I 'glassed the port side of the rudder I made the panel oversize so that the cloth would drape around and seal the edges and faces.
Except I did not make the panel large enough - there was insufficient cloth to go easily around the curves and onto the flat front and rear faces.
So when I 'glassed the starboard side I I made sure the panel was plenty oversize to allow this. Here you can see the substantial overlap onto the front face, sealing it up.
The boom is even simpler than the gaff. It is a straight length of 2 1/4" square Douglas Fir, tapered on the bottom at one end.
It comes in two pieces, presumably because it would be too long to ship in one piece.
The scarf to join the two pieces is ready cut, and merely needs to be cleaned up with the plane before gluing up.
Here is one half of the scarf joint being planed.
The only timber left on the wood rack was for the mast and the tabernacle, so I stowed that out of the way under the boat and used the rack for a work surface.
Plenty of thickened epoxy and lots of clamps, and the scarf was done. Here it is.
That boom is massive and I will leave it to cure for a few days before moving it.
The gaff is 1" thick and is rounded over with a 1/2" cutter to give a semi circular section to the edges.
Here is the router with bearing guided cutter fitted.
We are provided with a pattern for the gaff, but it is in two pieces which are linked together with a puzzle joint. I taped up the joint , to keep it stiff. Like this.
I marked up the shape and cut it out with the jigsaw.
Here it is being planed to a fair curve on the bench.
With a lot of rounding over going on elsewhere I thought I might as well do the tiller at the same time.
I used a 1/4" bearing guided round over cutter in the router, and shaped the edges of the handle. Like this.
I made a paper pattern for the fibreglass on the rudder blade and bottom plate, so that a single panel would be required for each side.
Here is the panel laid out on the port side of the rudder.
Next it was wetted out with clear resin and left to cure. This is it.
It was time to round over the edges on the rudder in preparation for fibreglass cloth.
I used a 1/4" round over cutter in the router, but there were places where it could not reach and they had to be finished by hand.
In this pic the port bottom plate has been rounded over and the curves at the front and rear of the plate marked up in pencil to be finished with a rasp and sandpaper.
The bowsprit is left square edged at each end and in the middle where it passes through the stem. In between the edges are chamfered, to save weight and for looks.
There are eight chamfers in all - two on each edge.
The chamfers are carefully measured and marked up using the drawings for reference.
A 45 degree chamfer cutter is required for use in the router. The cutter which I had was too large in diameter to fit through the base plate of my ancient Elu router.
Thinking this must be a feature of the Elu, I looked at other 1/4" shaft routers in the local DIY stores. They all had the same size aperture and therefore the same problem.
How strange. What use is a 1/4" shaft, bearing guided, 45 degree cutter which will not fit through the base plate of a 1/4" shaft router?
Undeterred I ground out the Elu baseplate aperture until it was safe to fit the chamfer cutter.
Here is the bowsprit clamped to the saw horses and the router is being deployed.
Here is the finished article on the bench.
Making the tiller seemed like a quick, fun bench project before I started on the bowsprit.
So I used the pattern to mark up the tiller on a nice piece of Ash and cut it out.
Here it is held in the vice for shaping. I am using a Shinto saw rasp to make the concave curve on the bottom edge of the handle.
The fillets on the bottom board of the rudder were well and truly cured so I sanded them, ready for covering with fibreglass.
Here I am using the sander on the port fillet.
When I fitted the upper breast hook I rounded over the bottom edge but left the top edge until I decided how to finish the top edges of the sheerclamp in the forward deck area.
I seem to have reached a decision that I am going to leave them as they are, because they look just fine unrounded.
So while the router was busy doing things elsewhere I fitted it with the 3/8" bearing guided cutter. Here it is.
Knowing that the drain holes were correctly located made drilling them a quick and easy activity.
Here is the starboard Dorade box drain hole on the forward deck.
This is the drain hole in the starboard seatback locker.
And here is the drain hole in the front of the hood, on the starboard side.
I purchased a 20mm augur bit to drill the footwell drain holes, but it tore lumps out of the scrap piece of 18mm ply that I used for practice. So I will hold back on these two holes for now. I really don't want to scar the transom!
I was keen to not damage the transom when cutting out the slot for the tiller, inside or outside the boat.
So I fixed a piece of scrap ply on the inside face of the transom where I would be drilling access holes for the jig saw, to prevent tear-out by the drill bit. Here it is.
It required a 13mm hole, which I marked up using this fantastic device given to me by my son at Christmas. It's called an Iris drawing compass, and is used to accurately draw any diameter circle up to 70mm.
I used the big DeWalt drill to make the holes. Here it is with the hefty drill bit.
And here is the partly shaped slot.
So next I had to mark in the rest of the round over on the sides and top of the slot. Like this.