There aren't many and they are very small, just like the ones I found on the hull side panels when painting.
It's a nuisance but not a material problem, and it's important to know that the boat has been properly finished.
When the primer was nice and hard I sanded the cheeks and the boot top smooth with P220, then applied ten coats of Oxford Blue gloss. It looked like this.
I thought I would have had the boat flipped right side up by now, but everything takes much longer to do than I initially think.
At some point though I will have to reassemble the build cradle to receive the painted hull, so I would need to know where it would interact with the keel and bottom panels.
The cradle was too heavy to check this, so I made a pair of cardboard templates to do the positioning. Here they are in place on the hull bottom.
I decided to prime the rudder at the same time as the transom frame, saving time later on and materials now.
Here is the rudder with white primer applied and taped off to apply grey to the cheeks.
My experience painting the horizontal blue boot top on the transom made it clear that it was going to take a long while to add the white and blue stripes to the vertical edges.
This mainly because ten coats of gloss are required to obtain a good finish, but also because the white and blue sections cannot be painted at the same time.
The first task however was to mark up the rest of the transom stripes. So I used masking tape to cover the edges so I could pencil in the lines as many times as needed to get it looking just right. Like this.
I am copying the paint scheme on the prototype, so required the white corners of the stripe to be curved upwards to meet the blue.
Here is the curve marked up on the port chine.
That's how the prototype was painted, and there has to be a good reason for that.
Here I have taped a thin batten to the transom so I could mark up a fair curve.
Here the frame has been taped up and the transom masked off before painting begins.