Saturday, 21 November 2020

Rub Rails | First Laminate Test Fit

When cured I moved the first laminates into the workshop for cleaning up and test fitting.

Here you can see they were so long that they only just fitted inside. I am using the saw horses for support while cleaning up the second glued scarf joint on the starboard laminate.


Fitting this first laminate requires temporary screws driven into the hull to pull it into place. I didn't like the sound of this, but I couldn't see any alternative.

So, I went along the side of the boat and used bits of tape to mark where screws would need to be driven.

I didn't mind doing this in the sealed buoyancy compartments in the seatbacks, but refused to make holes inside the beautifully finished seatback locker interiors. Some sort of clamping would be required on this part of the rails.

I hoped that just three screws would suffice in the cabin - the holes would be easily filled when painting the interior.

And at the stem we have the substantial lower breasthook, made of 18mm ply and ideal for using some long screws to pull the end of the rail into place. I decided to use three screws here.

That didn't seem too bad, so I then offered up the starboard laminate and similarly marked up where holes would be required for the screws.

Holes for 4 x 50mm screws were drilled accordingly, and the bevel required on the bottom of the rail was planed.

The laminate was then carefully fitted, starting in the middle where the bend is slight and working outwards to the stern and the bow.

It worked out really well.

Here is how I pulled the laminate into place over the seatback lockers at the stern, using a pair of large F clamps.


These clamps were a gift from my son a couple of years ago, and they are really useful. Thanks Nick!

This is how the laminate curved from the cabin all the way to the bow. It's a lovely fair curve but what you can't see here is the small gap between the rail and the hull. This would need to be fixed, somehow.


The laminate bent well and didn't fight back too much - even at the bow. I was fairly pleased with this outcome so retired for the day.

The following morning I inspected the gap and thought about drilling more holes in the hull, and remembered that I had fitted a substantial sheerclamp to support the forward deck.

I did this because the manual calls for an epoxy fillet here, which seemed ridiculous to me.

So ... no problem here and more temporary screws could be deployed to close the gap.

I marked where the screws would be required, removed the laminate and drilled more holes, and then refitted it.

This is what it looked like.


Looks good and gap closed!

Here is the view along the rail from the stern of the boat.


There is a lovely fair curve all the way to the bow. I was delighted!

Next I cleaned up the port laminate scarf joint on the sawhorses, as here.


I marked up and drilled the port laminate exactly the same as its starboard counterpart, and fitted it in the same way.

Here is a view of the  laminate at the bow and topside.


And here is the view looking astern.


That was very successful, and a lot of fun!

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