Topsides | Paint Strippng

Work at last began on stripping the topsides paint. I am using the same techniques, tools and materials that I deployed on the undersides, so see previous posts for detailed descriptions if interested.

Here I have started work on the port cockpit deck and sides.

I think it will be a lengthy but relatively straightforward process, so I'm not too concerned about making progress at this stage.

The Centreboard Now Drops!

When we moved the boat back onto its build cradle I took great pains to make sure it was located where the build manual says it should sit, which is with the centreboard slot exactly between the two cradle end pieces.

As a result the centreboard now drops to the floor, which it never did before. This indicates that it was too far to the rear of the cradle the last time we did this.

Here is the board touching the floor.

This is useful to know, because I can easily touch up a couple of dings on the forward edge of the board before putting her on the trailer.

Getting Ready For Paint Stripping

Before any paint stripping could take place in the cockpit it was necessary to ensure no stripper could drip or leak into the interior or onto the transom.

So I used plastic sheeting to seal up any vulnerable areas.

Here the lazarette hatch openings and the rudder slot have been covered up.

Both drain holes in the footwell have been plugged with BlueTack, like this.

Lastly the companionway, ratchet block support pad and centreboard pendant were sealed off, like this.

We are now ready for stripping!

Making The Keel Support Block

I needed to support the keel at the stern of the boat so that I could safely work in the cockpit. Otherwise it could tilt under my weight, which would not be good.

So I made a support block. Here it is.

Some foam padding glued in place with double sided tape prevents damage to the paintwork.

It is now safe to work in the cockpit.

Paintwork Protection | Plastic Sheeting

Having spent a lot of time and trouble repainting the bottom of the boat I had no wish to splash it with paint stripper when stripping the topsides.

I used plastic sheeting to protect the paint. Here is a view of the port side.

And this is the transom.

I have only taped the sheeting to the rub rail and to itself to form a curtain around the boat. No tape is in contact with new paintwork since previous experience tells me that tape always leaves a mark, however faint. And we don't want that!

The sheeting is not in contact with the paint work either, so it can't abrade the surface.

The primary purpose of the sheeting is to protect against splashes of paint stripper, but it also plays a secondary role in preventing damage by accidental contact. Which is not unlikely, given that the garage is in frequent use by the other member of the household … 

Ratchet Block Support Pad | Removal

The next item for removal was the main sheet ratchet block, attached to its support pad.

I had previously removed the machine screws which secured the pad to the deck, so it was simply a matter of separating the pad which was now only held down by caulk.

I used a long, sharp, thin-bladed knife to slice through the caulk. Taps from a mallet assisted greatly. This is the loosened pad.

That was easy.

Lastly, the centreboard pendant cleat was removed, leaving the topsides ready for paint stripping.

Lazarette Hatches | Removal

With the boat upright again I needed to remove the remaining fittings before stripping paint.

The first to be tackled were the lazarette hatches. This was easy enough using a ratchet socket and a screw driver, like this.

The hatches came away without too much trouble but it was immediately obvious that I had the same problem that I experienced with one of the portlights - the caulk had hardened excessively and was not easily removed.

I think this was because I used old caulk which had partly cured in the tube and was not fit for purpose.

A small, sharp knife was the best way to cut it away. This is it.

The residue was easily cleaned off with some solvent and a scraper.